Jill Dodson: Madeira, Portugal

I’ve been to mainland Portugal before, but this was my first visit to Madeira. I was amazed. It’s a place you’ll completely fall in love with. Plus, it’s just under two hours from Lisbon with multiple flights running several times a day. I stayed for five nights, but I definitely wanted more time. I’ve been telling all of my clients, you have to put Madeira on your list.

It’s such a diverse place with tons of interesting things to do, and since it’s subtropical, you’ll get nice weather all year round. Madeira is also self-sustaining and is a huge producer of sugarcane and bananas, not to mention all the fresh seafood. It has three Michelin-starred restaurants and some of the best wine in Portugal, so if you’re a foodie, you’ve got to go.

Five Days in Madeira

Day One

On the first day, I went to the Savoy Saccharum, which used to be an old sugarcane factory. It was so beautiful, right on the water, with this fantastic beach club and spa with treatments like sugarcane body scrubs, massages, and facials. It’s a wellness resort; my room was beautiful, and it gave me an exciting first impression of Madeira.

Day Two

I checked into Reid’s Palace on the second day and absolutely loved the Beverly Hills and South Beach vibe, with the blue and white striped umbrellas and lots of pink everywhere. It’s a historic hotel that’s hosted famous guests, like Winston Churchill, but the rooms are renovated and modern, with nice, comfortable beds, sophisticated decor, and even Dyson hair dryers. Reid’s Hotel does daily afternoon tea on the terrace, and it’s such a charming tradition.

Once we’d settled in, we were off again on a sidecar motorcycle tour, cruising up the northwestern coast of Madeira and making scenic stops along the way, including at one of the steepest gondola rides in Europe. I also learned a lot about the history of the island and its geography. At night, we went to Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, a short walk from Reid’s Palace.

They have charming suites and tons of fabulous dining, including AVISTA, where we were
treated to a gorgeous dinner and wine pairing overlooking the Atlantic.

Day Three

On the third day, we explored the city center and outskirts, including a well-maintained hiking trail that ran just over one mile. It was fun, but I’d recommend bringing good hiking shoes. At the end, we stopped at a boutique cider house where I sampled some artisanal apple cider. I tasted it again later at one of the restaurants we dined at, and it was a cool connection, discovering this cider later on and seeing how well it paired with local ingredients.

That day I had the chance to sample some of Funchal’s food, including Portuguese chorizo, shrimp, scallops, and olives, before wandering through the tiny streets of Old Town. What’s interesting about Funchal is that there’s something to discover around every corner. We found a local lacemaker and actually got to watch them make the lace. That evening, we dined at Brisa do Mar, Reid’s Palace’s French restaurant with a spectacular view of the sea, and I had a delicious steak dinner.

Day Four

Day four was one of my favorite days, because we cruised around Madeira by Jeep and saw these stunning volcanic rock formations that reminded me of Iceland. We stopped plenty of times to take pictures as we went along through the volcanic rock, eucalyptus forest, and up to this flat tundra that looked completely mystical and reminded me of The Lord of the Rings. For lunch, we had a picnic of Portuguese barbecued meat, prepared right there in the middle of nowhere. It was one of the best experiences on this trip because the lunch was simple—just bread and meat—but everything was so good, and we were out there in the fresh air.

That night, we switched hotels again, this time to the Savoy Palace, which is another five-star resort, and the hotel staff greeted us in the presidential suite with a welcome drink and live piano music. Then, we went to Galaxia for dinner, where we enjoyed another excellent dinner and signature wine pairing.

Day Five

On the fifth day, we took it to the next level with a luxury yacht cruise and dinner at a farm-to-table restaurant. It started off with a wicker workshop where we made our own wicker crafts with a local artist whose work was featured in Madrid Fashion Week. Then, we went to Dreams Resort, where we took a two-hour yacht tour that took us all the way to the edge of the island. The waters were so bright and turquoise, and I learned that this spot was where the last Star Wars movie was filmed. So cool! Plus, we got to explore the yacht and drink champagne as we sailed.

That night, we ate at the Gazebo, which is a farm-to-table restaurant recommended in the Michelin 2025 guide. If you didn’t know where it was, you’d never find it. The entrance is totally nondescript, and it’s off a side road, but when you walk in, you’ll find yourself in a beautiful garden area with both al fresco and indoor seating. I had the artisanal cider I had on the first day, and it paired ideally with the food. It was the perfect send-off for my Madeira experience.

Madeira is a Magical Place

Madeira is a truly impressive place, and it’s really easy to get to from mainland Portugal. Funchal is just 30 to 40 minutes away by taxi or airport transfer, most people speak English, and the city center is very walkable. It’s also the spot to taste its most iconic export, Madeira wine, and enjoy super-fresh seafood and great dining. It’s a foodie paradise and a must-visit for anyone who likes wine.

Plus, it’s pretty off-the-beaten-path for Americans. Europeans know about it, but it hasn’t hit the tourist map quite yet on this side of the world, but once you go, you’ll be hooked. Everyone I went on the trip with said, ‘we’re coming back.’

Madeira, Portugal: Five Days in Foodie Paradise