Four Decadent Days in the French Riviera and Monaco

Katie Read: The French Riviera, Monaco

People think about the French Riviera as a summer getaway spot, but it’s really a year-round destination. I went in the winter and loved it; it’s always vibrant, and there’s always something going on, and you’ll find a mix of glamour, history, and great food. I suggest using one city as your home base and exploring from there since Nice, Antibes, and Cannes are all less than an hour from each other. You can plan out day trips and have a nice time.

Four Days on the French Riviera and Monaco

Day One

The drive from Nice Côte d’Azur Airport to the Splendid Hotel & Spa was incredibly scenic. I kept thinking that it would be the perfect place to ride a Vespa because you’re zipping along the coast. It’s beautiful. They also drive on the right side of the road, so there’s no learning curve if you want to rent a car or bike on your trip. Once I arrived, I did what I always do: head to the grocery store for a few liters of bottled water. It’s my best travel tip. That way, you don’t have to pay inflated costs for water on the road. Tap water is drinkable in France, but I like the convenient and portable nature of bottles.

Our hotel was comfortable, quiet, and set back about a block and a half from the ocean. Many of the resorts and hotels in Nice are a bit away from the sea, but they’re all nearby. There was a gorgeous rooftop restaurant, bar, and terrace, and I took in views of the Alps and ocean at our three-course dinner and wine pairing. Over the meal we had the chance to chat with our guides about what to expect from the rest of the trip. It was a fantastic way to start the vacation. Afterward, we went to the bar for some champagne, because, when in France, you should have the real deal. For champagne to be considered authentic, it needs to be made in the Champagne region of France; otherwise, it’s sparkling wine. I had to have some.

Day 2

On the second day, we did a combination driving and walking tour, and it was a smart choice because Nice is fairly large, and we couldn’t walk between every site. First, we drove to a fortress to get some panoramic views of the Alps. Then we walked through the Old Town and saw some houses owned by people like Bea Tollman and Sean Connery, plus some Roman ruins that are right in the middle of the city. I learned so much history on that tour and how it passed hands between France and Italy, which is why you can see so much Italian influence in the architecture. There’s an Art Deco feel to the downtown core; a lot of the buildings were built in the 1940s or 1950s, so you truly feel like you’re part of Old Hollywood when you’re there.

Nice’s promenade is also charming, and it runs alongside a long stretch of beach. The beach is pebbled, but the stones are smooth and perfect for a stroll in water shoes. It was too cold to swim when I was there, but you can definitely go in the water during the summer. It’s calm, and there are plenty of lifeguards. That night, I went to Hotel Le Negresco, Nice’s most famous hotel, for dinner. It’s a magnificent property, the full five-star experience, and they have an art collection right in the lobby. I went to the Michelin-recommended restaurant and had locally caught sea bass. It was delicious. I loved it, and the view looking out from the water was divine.

Day 3

On the third day we went on a guided tour to Antibes, which is the oldest Riviera town with these astonishing winding cobblestone streets. It’s your typical storybook village, and we got to walk through this wonderful little marketplace. I love the way people who live in these towns just go about their days, buying fresh produce at the markets. It was nice to see. We also had phenomenal views of the Alps. Antibes looks out over the water, and the contrast of the deep blue ocean with the snowy white mountains is breathtaking. Afterward we went to Èze to see the Fragonard perfume factory, where you can make your own signature scent, and then had lunch in Cannes, which is a very impressive city. It’s warmer than Nice, and you can actually walk down the film festival red carpet like a movie star.

Speaking of movie stars and glamour, we ended our day in Monte Carlo, Monaco, starting at the hillside palace for sunset and then making our way down to the city. The prince was in town, so we got a glimpse of him going in and out of the palace. Monaco has a high-end vibe, with luxury stores everywhere and mega-yachts in the harbor, but there’s also a lovely Christmas market with delicious raclette cheese, mulled wine, and ice skating for the kids.

Day 4

We went to my favorite spot on the final day, St. Paul de Vence. It’s a medieval hillside town full of intricate mosaics that has this incredible Beauty and the Beast feeling to it. It was easily the cutest town we visited, and the views were just spectacular, and you could pick up so many great local products and souvenirs to bring home. Then we went on a wine tasting where we learned about aging wine in glass bottles, a process that dates back to the Middle Ages. I’d never heard of it before, and it was utterly fascinating to see these giant glass bottles basking in the sun. That evening, we went back to Monte Carlo for a traditional three-course French dinner with wine. We had the best of the best French food, like pâté and profiteroles, and then went to the casino lobby, which was decorated from ceiling to floor for Christmas and full of people in tuxedos and ball gowns.

I love France, and I’ve traveled pretty extensively around the country, but this trip was my first experience with the French Riviera, excluding a few days I spent in Cannes. I cannot recommend it highly enough. It’s completely worth the hype.