Alpine Views and Gorgeous Seas: Slovenia and Croatia

I’ve been to Croatia twice before this trip, but this was my first time to the northern part. I was so excited to see it. It was also my first time in Slovenia, and I absolutely loved it. It’s such a charming little country, and the architecture was just beautiful. It’s also easy to get to other places, like Venice, right from Slovenia, so it’s a great jumping-off point for a larger European adventure.

Eight Days in Slovenia and Croatia

Day 1

We started in Zagreb, Croatia, which has a fun, smaller city feel, plenty of museums, and is an excellent place to make your hub and take day trips from. It’s charming, historic, and walkable. We took it easy on the first day, but we went to the Dubravkin Put restaurant that night.

The Dukravkin Put has a Michelin star, and dinner was phenomenal, plus they served us a wonderful dessert with hazelnuts and pears. We also had some fantastic Croatian wine. My husband and I still talk about that wine. It was so good. Visiting this restaurant was a lovely way to start off the trip.

Day 2

I began the next day bright and early with a nice walk through some local parks, and then we had more walking on a half-day guided sightseeing tour through Zagreb. It was a pleasant introduction to the city. One thing I noticed is that Zagreb felt like a really residential city. Things are a bit more spread out, but there is also an Old Town area and a big main square.

You can also see a 3D map of the entire city in Gradska Skupština, Zagreb’s City Hall, showing all the different quarters and rivers. It’s a cool feature and a smart way to reference where things are. Zagreb has a big cafe culture. Anyone who visits this city should check out Tkalčićeva Street, which is full of cute cafes, many restaurants, and bars with local beers on tap. It’s a great place to people-watch and sit and enjoy the architecture.

At night, we went to Pod Mirnim Krovom for dinner and a show with traditional dancers. I found it fascinating and especially liked the traditional costumes. They even had us dance with them, which was a lot of fun.

Day 3

We went to Ljubljana, Slovenia, the next day, and everyone on our trip adored this spot. It’s at the foot of the Julian Alps, surrounded by snow-capped mountains with a castle perched above the city. The food was outstanding with a strong Italian influence. I loved the pizza. Ljubljana is very small and easy to get around. It’s insanely walkable, and it’s impossible to get lost.

Ljubljana was also very beautiful. There’s a river running right through the middle, and plenty of willow trees right on the water. There are window boxes with flowers everywhere, stone bridges that lit up at night, and picturesque spots around every corner. We took the funicular to Ljubljana Castle, which was really fun to walk around, and an interactive experience that takes you through the whole history of the city.

Day 4

On the fourth day, we went to Lake Bled, which was certainly a highlight for everyone. It was a 45-minute drive for us, but our guide said it could take up to two hours in busy season. It reminded me a lot of Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, and it felt like I was stepping into a fairy tale. The water was so perfectly blue and calm, and there’s an island with a church right in the middle of the lake. It was such an astounding place, with gorgeous gold around the altar and a bell we all could ring to make a wish.

We also got to visit Bled Castle, which overlooks the lake and had some truly stunning views. They have an actual printing press in there, and you could even get something pressed if you wanted. I think it was probably everyone’s favorite day. It’s hard to overemphasize how lovely it was being up there. Afterward we stopped in Radovjica, which is this cute, tiny town with cafes, bakeries, and signs everywhere for chocolate festivals and products. I’m a sucker for churches, and Radovjica had a wonderful one: the Church of St. Peter, with art on the ceiling that looks just like foliage.

Day 5

Day five was our free day, and we got to enjoy more of Ljubljana. I did a canal tour, which was very interesting because I got to see different views of the city. We also had delicious Neapolitan pizza. Typically, when I travel, I’ll eat mostly the local cuisine, so my first thought was, ‘I can get that anywhere,’ but our guide kept telling us we had to try it. The guy was right. It was excellent pizza!

I also spent a lot of time exploring the city, then grabbing some drinks at a rooftop bar to watch the sunset. You can see the Julian Alps on one side and the old churches and castle on the other. I had some time to reflect on what I loved about Ljubljana, and I think it’s the safest city I’ve ever visited in Europe. It’s so easy to explore; everything is brightly colored, and there’s good shopping. Slovenia might not be on everyone’s radar, but if you’re looking for a place that’s a bit off the beaten path, it should be high on your list.

Day 6

The next day, I had the biggest pleasant surprise of the trip. We visited Postojna Cave, and it was probably the second most impressive thing on the itinerary. It was the largest cave system I’ve ever been to, spanning over 24 miles long with three levels. It took us five minutes by train to get inside, and then we walked around and explored. Postojna Cave hosts big events, like concerts and weddings, and I’m so glad we visited. It’s more than impressive. It’s majestic and massive.

Then, we went to Piran, an old Hapsburg seaside resort town right on the Istrian Coast. It has a very Venetian feel, and you can see Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia from the church at the very top of the city. We only stopped by for a bit, but I would have liked to spend more time. I’m sure there’s plenty to see. Next, it was back to Croatia to check into the Hilton Rijeka Costabella Beach Resort and Spa.

Our hotel was gorgeous and modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows and motorized curtains. We had a view of the ocean. It was so dramatic, and I saw what was literally the most phenomenal sunset I’ve ever seen in my life. It was the craziest shade of orange and pink. I’d go back to that hotel in a heartbeat.

Day 7

We went to Pula the following day and enjoyed one of the largest and best-preserved Roman arenas in the world. I learned that stones from that amphitheater actually went into building Venice. We also did an olive oil tasting, which was fun and informative. Like Italy, Croatia makes olive oil. Our guides taught us what to look for when buying olive oil and how to determine good products from mouthfeel and aftertaste.

The last stop of the day was Rovinj, which was another highlight for me in a trip full of highlights! It’s this little city right on the ocean. There were so many cobblestone streets, bright blue shuttered buildings, and all these hidden corners and alleys that you could wander down.

Day 8

Our last full day included a wine tasting with sommelier Tomislav Mikinac, who paired local Croatian wines with Michelin-inspired bites. I thought the presentation was quite elegant and elevated, and the food celebrated local flavors nicely. It was a wonderful send-off, and the views were divine through enormous windows overlooking the water. It was an ideal setting for a wine tasting.

In general, Slovenia surprised me. I completely fell in love with it. Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula is great. I feel like a lot of people focus on Dubrovnik, but Istria is magnificent. Do not snooze on it. You’ll be glad that you didn’t.