A Historic and Beautiful Journey Through Slovenia and Croatia

Lori Higgs: Slovenia and Croatia

Slovenia and Croatia have always been on my bucket list, and they did not disappoint whatsoever. You have it all: beautiful coast, history, adventure, nature, and very friendly people. Both countries are easy to get around, and most people speak English. They’re excellent options for first-time visitors to Europe, especially those looking for the kind of culture and feeling that you’d get in places like Italy, but a bit less expensive. 

Nine Days in Slovenia and Croatia 

Day One

We spent our first day in Ljubljana, Slovenia, walking around town and getting the lay of the land. Much of the city is pedestrian-only, and there are bridges in the downtown core. We sat down, had some pizza and Aperol spritzes, and immediately got into vacation mode. Ljubljana is walkable and safe, and it’s one of those places where you can’t really get lost. We stayed at the Lesar Hotel Angel, which is actually an old medieval house but with modern amenities like air conditioning and a good breakfast buffet. We called it a night fairly early so we could get a bright and early start the next morning. 

Day Two

The following day we got up, had a lovely breakfast, and headed right to the bus station on our way to Lake Bled. Since there wasn’t a lot of traffic, it only took us about forty minutes to get there, but during the busy season or if the roads are congested, it can take much longer. Lake Bled is gorgeous, and there’s an incredible castle with a restaurant overlooking the water and Julian Alps. You need to have a reservation, which we did, so we dined surrounded by magnificent scenery. Lake Bled’s water is the most perfect shade of blue, and it’s surrounded by huge snowcapped mountains. There’s also a little bitty island in the middle of the lake with a small church on it that you can visit by boat. We didn’t go, but it’s a popular option available to you.

Later, we went back to Ljubljana for more exploring. We took the funicular up to Ljubljana Castle and enjoyed panoramic views of the city and mountains beyond. You can also hike up from the center of town, but the funicular is so fast and convenient and, like most things in Ljubljana, conveniently located. Another thing I loved was the food. The pizza was excellent. They do seafood correctly, and I had some fantastic homemade potato gnocchi (njoki) on our second night.   

Day Three

On the third day we left Ljubljana at 8:00 a.m. to head to Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia. Since Slovenia and Croatia are both part of the Schengen Zone, you don’t have to go through customs, which was super convenient. Plitvice Lakes is a popular spot, and you need to arrived at your specific timed entrance. Ours was at noon. These parks lived up to the hype; the waterfalls were superb, and the lakes were just incredible. It’s very walkable with bamboo-type trails and a tiny ferry boat that takes you to a different system of trails on the other side. There’s also the option to take a sightseeing train throughout the park. It was all absolutely glorious.

Afterward we went to the Fenomen Plitvice Resort, which was spread out throughout the forest and overlooked the national park. We took a short hike and saw where we’d been all morning. It was really neat. That night we ate at the resort restaurant, and my husband had a spectacular fish dish. It was one of his favorite meals. 

Day Four

Split, Croatia, was the next stop, and we stayed at the Hotel Marmont, which is in a pedestrian-only part of town. The hotel staff were extremely nice. They got our bags and walked them to the hotel, showed us where the reputable ATMs were, and pointed out some restaurants we might want to try. I have to say. They were right on with their recommendations. I liked the hotel a lot too. We were just a few blocks from the Adriatic Sea, and there were beautiful flowers everywhere.

Split is simply a lovely place, and the day we arrived, we strolled around and got the feel for it, knowing that the following day we’d get a more in-depth historical tour. One thing you should know about Croatia is that there are many cats. Apparently they kind of run the city, and they’re as cute as can be and super friendly. 

Day Five

The next day we dug deep into the history and culture of Split with a private tour of famous spots like Diocletian’s Palace, which happens to be where part of Game of Thrones was filmed. After our tour, we enjoyed an olive oil tasting. I never dreamed that I would take olive oil and down it, but that’s how he had us trying it. I could tell the difference between the different products. The higher-quality oils were cleaner and crisper, and they went well with the spread of bread, olives, and cheese.

After the tasting, we went to a restaurant that was on the water and had another fantastic pizza, with pistachio sauce instead of traditional tomato. It was very good, with a mellow, nutty flavor, good olive oil, and a bit of cheese. Then, we walked along the waterfront and took in the nighttime views of Split.

Day Six

On day six we went to Dubrovnik, taking a detour for an oyster and mussel experience at Mali Ston Bay on the Pelješac Peninsula. It’s a protected area with a small station where locals harvest the shellfish. They had food for us when we arrived, a bit of bread, wine, and a few sweet snacks that paired well with the oysters and mussels. My husband loves seafood, and he said that the mussels were the absolute best he’s ever had. 

After our seafood feast, we went to the Hotel Kompass, which is located on the Adriatic Sea and has stunning views and a nice pool overlooking the beach. Our hotel was a ten- or fifteen-minute drive to Dubrovnik Old Town, which is nothing short of jaw-dropping. It was spectacular and easily one of my favorite cities. You can walk along the Old City wall and see the beautiful red rooftops and churches, plus get a glimpse of the sea. It’s all so historical, with mazes of cobblestone streets and outdoor restaurants. I loved it.

Day Seven

The following day we had a historical and gastronomic tour of Dubrovnik, which operated a lot like a progressive meal. We ate, we learned about the different things that we were passing, and we dined some more. The tour covered four restaurants, a wine tasting, and ended at a wonderful gelato place. It was the true local experience, and we loved getting to know our guide. When I travel, I want a local person to show me what to do and get that insider experience. 

The dishes that stood out to me were the tuna tartare and octopus sandwich. We also had an incredible pasta dish. Everything was traditional Croatian. As we walked and ate, we discovered additional things about the city. It’s full of delightful hidden surprises like Buza Bar, where you go through a small hole in the wall and come out the other side overlooking the sea. It’s a popular place for live music, food, and watching the sunset. 

Day Eight

Montenegro was on the agenda for the following day, and you do have to go through border control to enter. Sometimes there are long lines, and our guide was clear with us that crossing can sometimes be a bit iffy in terms of timing. Fortunately, it worked out well with us, and we were on our way to visit Perast and Kotor.

Perast was a cute town on a little bay surrounding by mountains. There’s a small island called Our Lady of the Rocks, which was artificially created by fishermen dropping rocks into the bay and has a lovely church. The second town, Kotor, is a fortified city with several museums and churches. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage region, so that was quite interesting.

Day Nine

We were supposed to leave the next day, but our flight was delayed, so we spend some time in Cavtat, which is directly on the Adriatic coast and ten minutes from the airport. That’s part of the beauty of Dubrovnik. The drive from the airport into town is magnificent, and you can stop and stay anyway. Our trip concluded with sushi and a bit of time to relax and watch the sunset on an unplanned day. It was the perfect ending.