Eight fantastic days exploring Northern Portugal and Spain

Terrah Van Meter: Northern Portugal and Spain

My husband and I have been to hundreds of European cities, and Porto is easily one of our favorites, if not our favorite. It’s absolutely stunning, easily walkable, and the people are very friendly. Another thing that’s nice about Porto is that it’s right on the Atlantic Ocean, and you have this lovely breeze coming in to cool off the city. Everything is so historic, and there’s a heritage law called Porto de Tradição that we found so fascinating. Basically, the government protects multigenerational companies, so you can visit little shops and cafes that have been there for 10 or 12 generations. We just fell in love with it.

Eight Days in Northern Portugal and Spain

Day 1

Porto is split into two parts: Gaia and old Porto, and we stayed at the Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia hotel. Most of the hotels and wineries are on that side, and historic districts, like Sé, are on the old Porto side. All Tivoli hotels are incredible, and this one was no exception. It was fabulous, and we tried all of their wines, including port, which is what Porto is most famous for. Since flights normally arrive in Porto and other European cities quite early, I suggest that my clients do some kind of fast-paced city tour on a golf cart or tuk-tuk. It keeps you awake until hotel check-in.

We had a half-day private tuk-tuk tour and got the lay of the land before we even got to our room, which was so great. Plus, that first night Portugal was playing Spain in the World Cup, and there were thousands and thousands of people downtown in the historic town squares. We were all watching the match on huge Jumbotrons with beautiful historic churches and cathedrals in the background. It was just so magical.

Day 2

The second day was the highlight of our entire trip with a vintage port wine and food tour. Our guide Kevin was from an area of Porto where they make green wine, and he was so knowledgeable and passionate about the city’s food and wine culture. We went to the Mercado do Bolhão, Porto’s most famous market. It’s extremely authentic, and many people working there have done so for generations.

That day we also boarded our ship, the AmaDouro, for a cruise through the Douro Valley. The thing that sets Ama Waterways apart from other river cruises is their impeccable level of service. It’s a cut above other river cruise lines. The journey was breathtaking too; you’re sailing past hundreds of thousands of terraced vineyards. It’s just so pretty.

Day 3

Our first stop was Peso da Régua, which is a very cute town of about 10,000 people. We were supposed to go hiking that day, but it was cancelled due to a heat advisory. Peso da Régua is right in the valley, so it’s really hot. You don’t get the nice sea breeze you do in Porto, but it was still nice to walk around and check it out.

When you sail with Ama Waterways, excursions are included, and on most of their cruises, you can choose from three different excursions. This system makes things easier. The only heads-up I’d give for our Douro Valley journey is that at a lot of these cruise ports, you have to take a bus into town. You can’t just walk from the ship itself.

Day 4

The following day we visited Vega de Terrón, which is in Spain. Since both Portugal and Spain are in the Schengen Zone, you don’t need to pass through customs. Vega de Terrón is a very peaceful town, and that evening we went to a winery estate run by this woman named Maria with a huge personality. She let me taste the port wine right out of the barrel. It was an experience.

On AmaDuoro you’re assigned a tour director on the first night at the welcome cocktail party. Ama introduces the captain and cruise director and gives us all a briefing on what the week will look like. Our tour director was named Mika. She was super cute and very bubbly, so on our way to all of these charming towns, we got to learn about the surroundings and get a good feel for the place.

Day 5

We visited Salamanca, Spain, on our fifth day, about an hour and a half ride from the pier. It’s a historic town with fantastic architecture, and they did an authentic flamenco show for us. The entertainment on this trip was remarkable, both in port and on the ship. AmaDuoro had a singer and piano player on board, and wow, could she sing. She performed every night. It was great.

Day 6

On day six we reached Pinhão, Portugal, and I was excited because it was a town you could actually walk to and around, apart from Porto. It was beautiful. We went to an outstanding winery called Quinta da Roêda with delicious wines, foods, and a stunning estate. It was one of the loveliest places I saw on the trip. Then, we walked back and painted the town red. We found this cute little bar with darts, where they were showing the World Cup, and we just had so much fun.

Day 7

We sailed back to Peso da Régua on the eighth day, but my husband and I decided to just relax and enjoy the pool. The truth is, we normally go on river cruises when it’s bone-chilling cold outside; we never get to have a pool day. That last day, we took advantage of the warm weather and enjoyed some time out on the deck surrounded by gorgeous vineyards.

The river cruise ships on the Douro River are small because they have to be to get through the locks. On our first day, we certainly noticed the size. Everything is quite small, and although you’ll find with you find on larger cruise ships, it’s all quite intimate. Plus, there were only about 80 people on board. It felt like by day two we knew everybody, so it was like an adult summer camp almost.

Day 8

We spent our last night back in Porto, which was convenient because everything is walking distance from the ship. It’s really like a floating boutique hotel, and being back in Porto was fun. In general, I appreciated this cruise because it felt authentic. Sometimes cruise stops can feel manmade and touristy, but this trip was real, fun, and lively. There were street performers everywhere, and this community vibe.

AmaDuoro is excellent for people who enjoy wine and a slower-paced cruise. It’s a boutique, high-end experience and a tremendous way to see northern Portugal while only having to unpack once. It’s also easy to get into Porto. The EES (Entry/Exit System for Europe) line was less than 30 minutes. Download Bolt in advance, bring an international charger, and you’ll have a great time.